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The Costa Blanca
or White Coast, which extends along that section of the Mediterranean
coast which corresponds to the province of Alicante, is made up
of two clearly differentiated scenic sectors.
To the North, a
curtain of mountains runs parallel to the sea, descending at times
to form cliffs; to the South, a vast plain of sand patches, palm
trees and salt deposits make up the backdrop for the beaches.
The traveller can
choose any of the corners of this coast, from the most bustling
and cosmopolitan to those which still maintain their rural air beside
the sea. In any case, the trip to the nearby regions is well worth
the venture for they make up a fine representation of the typical
Mediterranean countryside.
From the valleys,
which are covered with stepped orchards and keep alive its Moorish
past, to the palm trees of unmistakable African origin, the horizons
of the Costa Blanca offer the most varied attractions.
The climate offers
variations as well. The temperatures are usually mild -the annual
average is a little higher than 17ºC- and rain is scare, though
the pluvosity is logically higher in the mountainous northern sector,
in comparison with the lowlands which surround Elche and Orihuela.
The fields of almond trees, the vineyards, the fruit orchards and
the magnificent palm trees form a vegetation which emphasises the
oriental nature of the landscape.
The Coastal Route
From Denia to El
Pilar de la Horadada the trip along the coast is a very pleasant
car ride. Of course, our advice is to leave the motorway for more
urgent journeys and take the national highway which runs almost
entirely along the sea. We will suggest several detours along the
local highways which will enable our readers to discover the more
interesting corner. We are proposing an unrushed an interesting
itinerary, but we feel that we should advise the traveller that
if he visits this area in the summer, the entrance into the main
towns may, to the contrary, turn out to be very busy and overwhelming.
Denia is the starting
point, at the northern limit to the Costa Blanca. The city, presided
over by a castle which enjoys a splendid view, unfolds in a clearly
urban ambience, though it still preserves intimate little corners
in the fishing quarters of Baix la Marand Les Roques, near the fortress.
The Church of Santa Maria, of the 17C, is its most outstanding sight.
The surrounding present several spots of enormous interest: the
view from the Torre (Tower) del Gerro, a watchtower, erected in
the 17C, six kilometres from Denia heading in the direction of San
Antonio, certainly deserves a visit.
Both to the North
as well as the South, the Denia littoral is made up of fine beaches.
In order to enjoy the Mediterranean countryside in one of its best
versions, we suggest that the traveller go to the Cabo de San Antonio:
from here, with the Sierra de Montgo mountains in the background,
to the Cabo de La Nao, the journey leads through cliffs, mountains,
coves and along the sea.
Also at the foot
of the Montgo range and extending along the strip of coastline between
the Cabo de San Antonio and San Martin Cave is Javea (nine kilometres
from Denia). However, the traveller will understand why this town
has been traditionally chosen by visitors from all over Europe in
order to enjoy a privileged retirement. The centre of town, located
inland, preserves among its popular constructions, a fortress-like
church and a Gothic façade. At the other end of the Javea
cove, today occupied by modern buildings, is the rocky section of
the coast which extends as far as Cabo de la Nao, with the little
island of Portichol opposite.
Natural caves exist
within the cliffs, which can be visited by using precarious ladders;
the caves are known, because of their dangerous conditions, as pesqueras
de la muerte (fishing grounds of death). Heading inland in this
region, the traveller will find, among the vineyards and fields,
some fine examples of riu-rau, a popular type of dwelling preceded
by an arcaded front which has inspired many of the villas that have
been constructed more recently. 15km from Javea is Moraira, an old
fishing port protected against pirates by an old castle and watch-tower.
Further inland there is Benissa and the lovely layout of its streets
and houses. From there a pleasant road leads through La Fustera
- an interesting tourist resort - and then to Calpe (about 10km
away) at the foot of the Peñon de Ifach, a rock jutting out
from the sea and classified as a nature park today. The Peñon
(or rock), joined to the mainland by a narrow isthmus, is one of
the most characteristic views of the Costa Blanca. On both sides,
there are two small coves with highly recommended beaches.
From here, the
coastal itinerary follows the national road. About four kilometres
from Calpe is the Mascarat tunnel which crosses one of the rockiest
foothills of the Bernia Sierra. At the exit of the tunnel, we suggest
that the traveller pause for a few moments to admire this section
of the littoral where the sea takes on a very profound shade of
blue. Very close by, near Olla de Altea (a rural district which
precedes the actual town of Altea), is, to the right, a detour which
leads to Altea la Vieja (Altea the Old) and Castell de Guadalest.
This is one of the most beautiful excursions to be made in the province.
But let us continue along the coast for the moment.
Altea is now very
close and our advice is to leave the car in any of the streets which
branch off from the main road and begin a long, leisurely walk through
the part of the recently built sector. The old section is perched
on top of a hill from which a splendid view can be had. The ascent,
along steep slopes and stepped streets, reveals a broad horizon
at every turn and extends along the entire La Marina region: the
silhouette of the Peñon de Ifach on one side and the Helade
range on the other, frame the view of the sea, with the gulls sweeping
low over the town. Heading inland, the Bernia range runs perpendicular
to the coast and very close the village. The orange orchards and
almond tree fields spread out towards the South, with the massive
Puig Campana forming the backdrop. A small parish church is located
at the highest point of the town, crowned with a tiled dome, constituting
one of the most representative views of Altea.
If we return to
the lower part of the town, the traveller will find a couple of
establishments, which have been there forever, where one can sample
an excellent paella cooked over a wood fire or simply have a glass
of local wine under the shade of an umbrella, with the shining sea
below. A recently inaugurated esplanade, flanked by outdoor bars
and restaurants, is a delightful place to stop and relax.
Eight kilometres
from Altea, heading inland, is Polop, a small town surrounded by
orchards and pine groves, which is highly recommended for those
who seek peace and quiet and cool summer nights. From the Via Crucis
which presides over the town, one can obtain a splendid view of
the surrounding valleys, which owe their present appearance to the
work of the Morisco farmers many years ago. A narrow local road
will take us very soon to Xirles, a village in which we can enjoy
some excellent paella's under the shade of leafy old trees. The
fountains of Polop, Xirles and the nearby village of La Nucia have
always made this area an ideal destination for brief excursions.
Very close to Polop on the way to the coast, there is La'Alfas del
Pi with its splendid beach called Albir.
Benidorm, the next
stop on our itinerary, can be reached via Altea or directly from
Polop. Here the first visit should be to the small section of old
streets which was all that existed of today's busy tourist centre
only three decades ago. The Balcony of the Mediterranean is an observation
platform which sits on the site of a no longer existing fortress
and it affords a magnificent view of the Levante and Poniente beaches
and the nearby island of Benidorm. The maritime esplanade which
runs parallel to the Levante beach, the urban developments of tall
skyscrapers and the incredible proliferation of shops, restaurants,
outdoor cafes, ice-cream parlours, discotheques and a general variety
of entertainment establishments are a show in and by themselves
for the traveller. The people who sit at the out-door tables lining
the main avenues in the summer are also a part of the landscape
which characterises the major tourist resorts during the summer
months.
10km from Benidorm
is Villajoyosa, where there is a considerable fishing fleet. Near
the port, in the lower part of town, is a very pleasant esplanade
shaded by palm trees and flanked by old façades which have
been painted with bright colours. The combinations of ochres, reds,
yellows and aniline blues are repeated in the houses which appear
to be suspended over the dry bed of the river, another of the most
characteristic sights of Villajoyosa. On the way inland very near
Villajoyosa, there is Finestrat. In its vicinity Mount Puig Campana
is an impressive sight in the heart of Aitana Sierra.
17km away is a
turn-off on the right which leads to Aguas de Busot near which is
an ancient spa, closed nowadays and surrounded by pines. Eight kilometres
further on is Busot, and ten more, on the slopes of Cabeco d'Or,
are the Camllobre Caves which contain a big room filled with fascinating
calcareous formations. If we return to our starting point, the traveller
can choose to continue in the direction of Alicante along the inland
route (15km) or head towards the beaches of El Campello, Muchavista
and San Juan, which have been entirely urbanised. The highway continues
to La Albufereta, leaving the Cape of Las Huertas with its tiny
intimate coves on the left.
The Albufera is
almost an integral quarter now of the city of Alicante. We enter
the city with the Postiguet beach on one side and the rocky mountains,
crowned by the Santa Barbara castle, on the other. Once again, we
suggest that the traveller park his car and begin on foot the visit
to the sunny city, amidst ever-present palm trees and the sea. The
Castle, which can be reached by an elevator, offers a complete view
of the town, the port and the Paseo de la Explanada. The Church
of Santa Maria with its façade representative of the Valencia
Baroque style and set in the heart of the old quarter, the Town
Hall, the church of San Nicolas and the mannerist and Baroque façades
of the buildings on Labradores Street are the main monumental landmarks
in this city. They are all located within a limited space in the
old section. The Rambla, perpendicular to La Explanada and also
lined with palm trees, is the main thoroughfare in Alicante´s
daily life. We suggest that the traveller sample a refreshing glass
of horchata (a drink made from earth almonds) in one of the outdoor
cafes or ice-cream parlours which line these two avenues, before
he continues on his way.
We can take the
same national highway heading in the direction of Murcia. Soon after
we leave Alicante, a turn-off announced the city of Elche; but we
will visit this city when we cover the inland route. Passing some
flat country, which was a salt deposit up until only recently, we
come to Santa Pola. There is a broad beach on the left -Los Arenales
del Sol- backed by a section of sand dunes.
Santa Pola is only
18km from Alicante and it fishing port has always enjoyed an excellent
reputation, thanks to the magnificent prawns and red mullet which
are brought in by the fishing boats. Though the wave of summer vacationers
has reached this town as well, it has still managed to preserve
all of the noisy and traditional ambience of the ancient Lonjas
(Commodity Exchanges) in the daily sales of the fish which are taken
right off the boats. In the heart of town, an ancient fortress built
in the 16C reminds of the times when Santa Pola served as the port
for Elche and it was always threatened by Berber attacks. The Cape
of Sant Pola, near the town, offers a very broad view of the area
and the nearby island of Tabarca.
If the traveller
noted a sharp change in the scenery -to flat plains- when he left
Alicante the section of land which separates Santa Pola from Guardamar
del Segura is surely a fine example of the horizon which characterises
the Vega Baja. An extension of salt deposits located near the endless
beaches defines this land which at some points is even below sea
level.
Guardamar, standing
out on a long beach, is surrounded by sand dunes covered with pines,
eucalyptus and bushes. Just 15km further to the South is Torrevieja,
near the vast salt deposits which once constituted one of the main
sources of income in this province. The gleaming flooded land which
takes on unique tones at dusk and the blinding white mountains of
salt offer a unique and immensely attractive landscape. Torrevieja
also has a popular yacht and fishing harbour. Very close by are
the beaches of Orihuela; Punta Prima, Playa Flamenca, Cabo Roig,
La Zenia, Dehesa de Campoamor and El Pilar de la Horadada.
Denia and the Valleys.
The excursion which
we are proposing first cuts through the old Marquisate of Denia.
The landscape is mountainous and bears the traces of the presence
of the Moriscos and it is perhaps the most representative of the
inland regions.
A local highway
which skirts the coast will lead the traveller to Pego, passing
Safari Park on the right. Pego, (about 2km from Denia) is an important
farming community, dedicated chiefly to the growing of rice and
citrus fruits. From here, the itinerary will follow the local road
3311 through the mountains and past tiny towns, which guard some
reminder of their Moorish past. Al-Azraq was born here in the 13C,
an almost legendary figure who fought against the troops of Jaime
I at the Alcoy ramparts. According to tradition, which is perpetuated
in the Fiestas de Moros y Cristianos, San Jorge de Capodocia was
responsible for obtaining the victory for the Christian King. The
slopes covered with fig, cherry, olive and almond trees, vineyards
and he ruins of fortresses define the horizon in these silent valleys.
Planes (30km from
Pego) is the next stop on our trip. Just before we reach the town,
the highway runs past Barranco de la Encantada, one of the most
beautiful settings in the entire area. The town, located on the
slopes of a hill and at the foot of a castle, is a faithful reminder
of medieval urbanism. Some mansions and the small retables of tile
which make up the Via Crucis are the most characteristic tourist
features of Planes. Near the town, in a shady and cool setting,
is the 16C or 17C aqueduct with Gothic arches, which is a delightful
corner to spend some free time.
Further on, in
the same direction and crossing national highway 340, the traveller
will come to Agres (about 15km away) at the foot of the Sierra de
Mariola. Soon after, and worthy of a stop, is Frare (Fraile-Friar)
de Agres, a rock of an unusual shape, from which a spring of thermal
waters flows surrounded by lush vegetation. Once in the town, the
traveller should begin the ascent of the Stations of the cross,
which offer a splendid view. At the highest point is a small convent
-La Mare de Deu d'Agres- which, according to tradition, is located
on a site which was miraculously selected by the image which is
worshipped there.
The surroundings
of Agres have always been popular among hikers. In addition to real
botanical rarities, such as the small forest of yews which are reputed
to be the most southerly in Europe, to the caves which were used
to store snow until the summer in another period -pous de la neu-,
any corner can be the setting for a most pleasant stroll. The proximity
of Mariola, on whose slopes a great variety of aromatic plants grow,
is also highly recommended area of nature.
Museums
In the following
the traveller will find the addresses and visiting hours of the
main museums which are found along the itineraries described.
Alicante
Provincial Archaeological
Museum. 6, La Estacion Aven. Tel: 512 1300. Open on weekdays: 9am
until 1.30pm. Closed on Sundays and holidays.
La Asegurada Municipal
Museum of 20C art. 3, Santa Maria Square. Tel: 521 4578. Closed
for alterations.
Bonfire Museum.
Santa Barbara Castle. Tel: 526 3131. Open from 10am until 1pm and
from 5 until 9pm. In the summer from 10am until 1pm and from 5 until
8pm. Closed on Saturday afternoons.
Agost
Pottery Museum.
11, Teuleria St. Tel: 569 1199. In the summer open from 11am until
2pm and from 5 until 8pm. In the winter from noon until 2pm. Closed
on Mondays.
Alcoy
"Camino Visedo"
Municipal Archaeological Museum. 60, San Miguel St. Tel: 554 0644.
Temporarily closed for alterations.
Casal Sant Jordi
Museum of Celebrations. 60, San Miguel St. Tel 544 0585. On weekdays
open from 11am until 1pm and from 5:30 until 8pm. Closed on holidays,
Saturdays and Sundays.
Crevillente
Mariano Benlliure
Municipal Museum. Glorieta Gaieta. Tel. 540 0223. By appointment.
Call the above number.
Denia
Archeological Museum.
At the castle. Tel: 578 0100. Open from 10:30am until 1pm and from
3pm until 6pm. Closed on Thursday.
Elche
Municipal Archaeological
Museum. In the Municipal Park. Tel: 545 6303. Open from 10am until
1pm and from 4pm until 7pm. Closed Mondays.
La Alcudia Museum.
Archaeological excavation site. On the road from Elche to Dolores.
Tel: 545 9667. Closed for Alterations.
Ibi
Toy Museum. Casa
Gran. Virgen de Los Desamparados Sq. Tel: 655 0226. Open from 10am
until 1pm and from 4pm until 7pm. Closed on Sunday afternoons and
on Mondays.
Javea
"Soler Blasco"
Archaeological and Ethnographical Museum. 1, Primicias St. Tel:
579 1098. Open from 10am until 1pm from Tuesday to Sunday. In the
summer: from 10am until 1pm and from 5pm until 8pm from Tuesday
to Friday, on Saturdays and Sundays from 10:30am until 1pm.
Monovar
Azorin House-cum-Museum.
6, Salamanca St. Tel: 547 0715. Open from 8am until 2:30pm from
Monday to Saturday.
Orihuela
Diocesan Museum
of Sacred Art. Teniente Linares Sq. Tel: 530 2747. By appointment.
Check with the Tourist Information Centre.
Museum of the Reconquest.
25, San Francisco Die St. Rubacalva Palace. Tel: 530 2747 (Tourist
Information Centre). Open from 11am until 1pm and from 5pm until
7pm from Monday to Friday.
Miguel Hernandez
House-cum-Museum. Arriba St. Tel: 530 2747 (Tourist Information
Centre). Open from 9am until 2pm from Monday to Friday.
Villena
Municipal Archaeological
Museum. 12, Santiago Square. Tel: 580 1156. By appointment. Call
the above number.
Marinas
Alicante
Real Club de Regatas
de Alicante. Tel: 521 8600. Max. Draught: 9m.
Club Nautico Costa
Blanca. Tel: 526 6986. Max. Draught: 3m.
Altea
Club Nautico de
Altea. Tel: 584 1591. Max Draught: 5m.
Luis Campomanes
Marina. Tel: 584 2200. Max draught: 10m.
Benidorm
Club Nautico de
Benidorm. At Poniente beach. Tel: 585 3067. Max. draught: 5m.
Calpe
Les Bassetes Harbour
(between the townships of Calpe and Benissa). Tel: 583 1213. Max.
draught: 14m.
Darsena Puerto
Blanco. Tel: 583 1337. Max. draught: 3.5m.
Club Nautico de
Calpe. Tel: 583 1809. Max. draught: 5m.
Campello
Darsena de la Illeta.
Tel: 563 1748. Max. draught: 5m.
Denia
Club Nautico de
Javea. Tel: 573 0350. Max. draught: 3m.
Javea
Club Nautico de
Javea. Muelle Norte. Tel: 579 1025. Max. draught: 2m.
Moraira
Club Nautico de
Moraira. Municipio de Teulada. Tel: 574 4319 and 574 4461. Max.
draught: 7.5m.
Orihuela
Club Nautico Dehesa
de Campoamor. Tel: 532 0386. Max. draught: 2.5m.
Puerto Deportivo
de Cabo Roig. Tel: 676 0176. Max. draught: 4m.
Pilar de la Horadada
Club Nautico Torre
de la Horadada. Tel: 535 1687. Max. draught: 3.5m.
Santa Pola
Sociedad Deportiva
Club Nautico de Santa Pola. Tel: 541 2403. Max. draught: 5m.
Torrevieja
Club Nautico de
Torrevieja. Tel: 571 0108. Max. draught: 9m.
Villajoyosa
Puerto de Villajoyosa.
Tel: 589 3606. Max. draught: 7m.
Golf Courses
Altea
Club de Golf Don
Cayo. 49, Conde de Altea St. Tel: 584 0716. 9 holes. Open throughout
the year. Club and trolley rental.
Calpe
Club de Golf Ifach..
Km 3 on the Moraira-Calpe road. Tel: 573 1754. 9 holes. Open throughout
the year. Club rental.
Denia
Club de Golf La
Sella. Partida Alqueria de Ferrando. Tel: 576 1274. 18 holes.
Javea
Club de Golf Javea
in the El Tosalet residential area. Km 4 on the Javea-Benitachel
road. Tel: 579 2584. Nine holes. Open throughout the year. Club
and trolley rental.
Torrevieja
Club de golf Villamartin.
km. 7.8 on the Torevieja-Cartagena road. Tel: 676 0354 in Madrid.
18 holes. Open throughout the year. Club rental.
Transport
Airlines
The international
airport of El Altet (Alicante) has regular flights connecting with
several points in Spain and Europe. For reservations or information,
call Tel: 528 5011 or, if it is a matter of national service, the
Iberia Office on the Paseo de Soto, for information in general,
call 521 8613 and 521 8510. For bookings: 520 6000.
Railway
Two RENFE lines
cover the Madrid-Alicante and Alicante-Murcia routes. The RENFE
(Spanish Rail) offices are on the Paseo de Explanada, 1 (Alicante),
and the telephone number is 522 6840. There is also a narrow-track
line which connects Alicante with Denia. It runs very close to the
coast. The length of the journey - there is a stop at each place
along the way- is compensated for by the beauty of the route. The
FEVE (narrow track railway) offices are in the Avenida de Villajoyosa.
The telephone number is 526 2731.
Buses
All of the towns
of the Alicante province are connected by regular bus lines. For
information as to schedules and routes, contact the Central Bus
Station at Calle Portugal: The telephone number is 522 0700.
Ships
There is regular
boat service from Alicante Port to the Balearic Islands and Oran
(Algeria). The Compañia Trasmediterranea has its offices
at Explanada de España, 2. Tel: 520 6011.
From Denia there
is a regular service to Ibiza run by the Compañia ISNADA.
The telephone number in Denia is 578 4100. In Ibiza, 530 4096. Also
by the Compañia de Formentera. Explanada del Puerto.
Tourist Information
Centres (Area Code 96)
Alicante:
Tourist Information
Centre of the Generalitat Valenciana (the Regional Government).
2, Explanada de España. Tel: 521 2285. Telephone for tourists:
520 0000.
Municpal Tourist
Information Centre: 1, Ayuntamiento Sq. Tel: 521 7835.
In the summer these
tourist authorities run two offices: one at San Juan beach and the
other at La Albufera beach.
Tourist Office
of the Tourist Initiative Centre (CIT) in Alicante. 17, Portugal
St. (Bus terminal). Tel: 522 3802.
Altea:
Tourist Office
of the CIT in Altea. Paseo Maritimo. Tel: 584 2301.
Benidorm:
Municipal Tourist
Information Centre, 16, Martinez Alejos Ave. Tel: 585 3224. Apart
from this centre, the tourist authorities of the Benidorm Town council
opens another two in the summer, one in La Cala and the other in
Europa Avenue.
Benissa:
Municipal Tourist
Information Centre: Pasage Glorieta. Tel: 573 1842.
Calpe:
Municipal Tourist
Information Centre. 66, Ejercitos Españoles Avenue. Tel:
583 1250.
Denia:
Municipal Tourist
Information Centre. Patricio Ferrandiz. Tel: 578 0957.
Elche:
Municipal Tourist
Information Centre. Portell de Granyana. Passeig de l'Estacio. Tel:
545 2747. Municipal Tourist Information Centre at El Altet Airport.
Tel: 528 5011. Ext. 100.
Guardamar del Segura:
Municipal Tourist
Information Centre. 5, La Constitucion Sq. Tel: 572 9014. (Town
Hall).
Javea:
Municipal Tourist
Information Centre. 24, Almirante Bastarreche. Tel: 579 0736.
Moraira:
Tourist Office
of the CIT in Moraira. 12, El Portet Avenue. Tel: 574 5168.
Orihuela:
Municipal Tourist
Information Centre. 25, Francisco Die St. Rubalcava Palace. Tel:
530 2747.
Torrevieja:
Municipal Tourist
Information Centre. Capdepon Sq. Tel: 571 0722.
Santa Pola:
Tourist Office
of the CIT in Santa Pola. Diputacion Sq.
Villajoyosa:
Municipal Tourist
Information Centre: Mayor St. In the former Town Hall building:
Tel: 589 5955.
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