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The Costa del Sol
includes about 300km of the Spanish Mediterranean Coast belonging
to the Provinces of Granada, Malaga and Cadiz. Recently, the Granada
Province coastline was redesignated as the "Costa Tropical".
It is protected from the northern winds by a mountain chain which
sometimes reaches down to the edge of the sea. This privileged coast
consists of a series of large beaches, coves half-hidden among cliffs,
sports harbours and fishing grounds. The
mild climate, scant rainfall and the sea breeze produce a semitropical
vegetation with frequent palm-trees, cypresses, oleander and hibiscus.
The proximity of very different countryside - mountains, valleys
full of orchards and the sea - is undoubtedly one of the main attractions
of this coast, which has all the attractive features of the Mediterranean
scenery and culture.
As it was easily
accessible from the most important places of the ancient Mediterranean
world, at an early stage the Costa del Sol was visited by Phoenicians,
Greeks and Carthaginians. The Roman empire also moved its tentacles
towards it and left considerable traces which the traveller can
admire in the provincial and municipal museums. But it is the period
under Islamic rule which left the deepest mark, not only as regards
the oriental atmosphere of many of the villages, but also as regards
the most traditional means of earning a living: the orchard crops,
an unquestionable legacy of the wise lesson taught by their original
Arab owners, and the crafts where the Islamic roots of the techniques
and designs are always evident. The popular music and the magnificent
Muslim buildings, which the traveller must include on his visit
at all costs, occupy a place of prime importance among the characteristics
of Andalusian culture and consequently of the Costa del Sol.
Christianity in
these lands coincides with the Modern Age. Between the 16C and 18C
the cities and towns were endowed with churches and palaces by then
totally Westernised, although occasionally it is possible to discern
Arab traces in the Baroque forms of the less official art and architecture.
There the traveller finds a long series of modest rural parish churches.
Visiting them in the course of wandering through the small whitewashed
streets in every village on the Costa del Sol is almost as obligatory
as getting to know the halls, rooms and gardens of La Alhambra.
Apart from the
villages with a rural air, today there are housing developments,
yacht harbours, golf courses, centres of entertainment, night clubs
and many other tourist attractions. Fortunately, all of them blend
perfectly with the traditional, peaceful atmosphere enveloping towns
and villages, miraculously and faithfully preserved in their original
mould. However, holiday on the beach with all the attractions it
may have in this part of the Mediterranean Sea is not the only thing
the Costa del Sol has to offer: by making short trips the traveller
has the opportunity of getting to know the most genuine aspects
of Andalusian culture.
In addition to
the folklore provided in the tourist centres, it is also possible
to reach the heart and soul of the popular celebrations. The fiestas,
Holy Week, flamenco competitions and bullfights are probably the
best recommendations for the travellers who are not satisfied with
the first thing they come across. Tasting the wines of the region
in charming wineries from other times and trying the pescadito (deep
fried fish) prepared in accordance with the demanding rules of popular
cooking to the ever present "international cuisine".
The Eastern Costa
del Sol and Costa Tropical.
This trip begins
at the eastern end of the Granada coast, known as the Costa Tropical.
Between that point and the city of Malaga, the traveller gets to
know the varied countryside of an always rugged coast. On his way
he comes across tourist centres and almost deserted coves, towns
and villages with an unmistakable Andalusian and Moorish profile
as well as interesting sights. (Total length of the trip: 169km.)
The road along
the first stretch of the coast at the foot of the la Contraviesa
Sierra, which reaches into the Province of Granada, runs parallel
to the shore and skirts the beaches and mountain spurs. Therefore
it is sometimes slightly difficult to negotiate. La Rabita is a
good point of departure: an ancient fishing village in the comforting
shelter of a small fortress and surrounded by cultivated land. A
little further on, after leaving behind a stretch of rocky coast,
the traveller reaches La Mamola, another seaside village with a
large beach, Castell de Ferro (21km from La Rabita) is another small
place at the foot of a hill: there a watch-tower is a reminder of
the threat of piracy, the same as in many other places along the
coast. From that point onwards the traveller enters the most tourist-orientated
sector on the Granada part of the Costa del Sol.
A 9km cliff separates
Castell de Ferro from Calahonda, a small bay bounded by rock formations.
Torrenueva (at a distance of 6km) is another summer resort close
to a lovely beach. From there it is 7km to Motril, a town with a
harbour, surrounded by an extensive plain where tropical crops are
grown. A visit of the town should include the 16C Collegiate Church
and the Sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de la Cabeza, which dates
from the same period and was built on the ruins of the castle, which,
according to tradition, gave shelter to the mother of Boabdil, the
last king of the Granada Nasrids. The beaches of Pariente, El Puerto
and Las Azucenas make up the coastline at Motril and have attracted
a lot of tourism.
Salobreña
lies only 7km away on the slopes of a hillock with an Arab castle
at the top. The village has very steep whitewashed streets and must
be included on a visit. The view from the old fortress reaches from
the river valley of the Gudalfeo, covered with cane plantations,
as far as Sierra Nevada. The old part of Salobreña is perfectly
preserved and it is a good example of the Muslim villages in the
ancient Kingdom of Granada. In a westerly direction the road passes
through a rugged countryside of slopes covered with orchards.
The village of
Almuñecar (17km) also lies in the shelter of a Muslim castle
and it is very interesting, too. Its most outstanding features are
probable the winding streets of the old part, the Phoenician and
Roman remains, especially the eye-catching, well-preserved aqueduct,
and the beaches of San Cristobal, El Altillo, Puerta del Mar, Velilla,
El Tesorillo and others, which are ideal for the practice of water
sports. Not very far away there are La Mona Point, an excellent
observation platform overlooking the Mediterranean, and La Herradura,
another very recommendable beach.
The road finally
enters the Province of Malaga. Maro is reached first. It is an old
area of fishermen's dwellings and belongs to the neighbouring town
of Nerja. This stretch of coast consists of coves and small pebble
beaches. Shortly after leaving behind the town, on his right the
traveller comes to a short turn off for the Caves of Nerja, a breathtaking
natural stage of calcareous formations, where concerts are held.
The prehistoric cave paintings from the Palaeolithic period are
very interesting. Nerja (22km from Almuñecar) occupies a
really privileged place. With a huge plain full of orchards in the
background, the town seems to cling to a rocky projection, where
an Arab castle used to stand in other times and which is known today
as the Balcon de Europa (Balcony of Europe). The view from this
observation platform includes the neighbouring beaches with the
cluster of houses and their whitewashed façades in the background.
Near the short avenue lined with palm-trees, there is El Salvador
Church, built in the 17C and 18C, which is a good example of a long
series of rural parish churches with an unmistakable Andalusian
air. Las Angustias Hermitage is another good Baroque building.
A 6km regional
road leads from Nerja to Frigiliana, an intimate, whitewashed village
which preserves a rural atmosphere. The oldest part has a layout
dating from Muslim times, while the parish church - also 17C/18C
- preserves a coffered ceiling of Mudejar origin. Its wineries produce
a much sought-after wine.
By now the traveller
has reached the region of La Axarguia, one of the most attractive
along the Costa del Sol. Inland it consists of valleys full of orchards
with a scattering of small Moorish villages which are reached by
following winding local roads. Two of these villages - Archez and
Salores - still preserve the minaret turned bell tower of the former
mosque.
8km from Nerja
along the coastal road, there is a 4km turn off for Torrox, which
is well worth a visit: the village lies on a steep slope and consists
of a lovely sequence of whitewashed houses and roofs. La Encarnacion
church and the Hermitage of Nuestra Señora de las Nieves
preserve their remarkable Mudejar traces. Back on the coast, the
watch-towers and small fortresses scattered along the coast will
remind the traveller of the threat of pirate incursions.
After eight kilometres
of beaches there is the run off for Algarrobo. On the way well-preserved
Phoenician burial places can be visited in the township of Trayamar.
Also worthy of a visit are Santa Ana church at the very top of the
village and the Hermitage of San Sebastian i Algarrobo.
Torre del Mar is
an extensive beach skirted by summer resort installations. From
there Velez-Malaga, the capital of La Axarquia and one of the most
interesting places in the province, lies 5km inland. El Arrabal
de San Sebastian with a medieval castle at the top is the oldest
part. The more recent area dating from the 16C and 17C has a long
series of town palaces and aristocratic houses. The most outstanding
sights in this ancient town, which played a decisive role in the
conquest of the Kingdom of Granada, are San Juan church, the Convents
of San Francisco, Santa Clara and San Jose de la Trinidad, the Mudejar
Patio (inner court) of San Marcos Hospital and the palace used as
the Town Hall today, apart from the Church of Santa Maria la Mayor.
28km from Velez a turn off the coastal road leads to the small village
of Macharaviaya, where the funerary monuments of the powerful Galvez
family are found in the crypt of the Baroque church. The beaches
of Benajarafe and El Rincon de la Victoria are traditional summer
resorts. There, at sunset the traveller may enjoy the spectacle
of el Copo a variety of fishing in shallow water. Nearby there are
Pedregalejo and El Palo, the beaches of Malaga, the capital of the
province. They are very crowded in the summer and are skirted by
small houses which used to belong to fishermen in other times.
The Western Costa
del Sol
The visit of the
western half of the Costa del Sol is the most representative sector:
between Torremolinos and Marbella the journey passes through a real
display of tourist attractions near beaches and yacht clubs. However,
the visit, which begins in Malaga, must not omit many less known
places, often still unchanged despite their proximity to more cosmopolitan
and sophisticated places. (Total length of the trip: 213km.)
Malaga is a city
with an attractive personality consisting of the most refined essence
of Mediterranean traditions. It is no competition for other Andalusian
capitals as regards sights - such as Granada, Seville and Cordoba-,
but it does have a valuable series of buildings from each of the
different periods of its history. A walk through the old part shows
the visitor the different features of this friendly city. Beginning
with the two Muslim fortresses - the Alcazaba and the castle of
the top of the hill of Gibralfaro- and the nearby Roman theatre,
the visit continues with the Cathedral, an excellent example of
renaissance and Baroque architecture. A stones throw away lies the
Paseo del Parque and the 18C Alameda, which - together with El Marques
de Larios St - are the centre of Malaga. The Parish Church of Sagrario,
next to the Cathedral, and the Churches of El Cristo de la Salud,
San Juan, Santiago, Los Martires and the Sanctuary of La Victoria,
which has an interesting crypt, are the most outstanding buildings
apart from the Episcopal Palace. El Pasaje de Chinitas, La Merced
and La Constitucion squares are other key places in Malaga.
As far as Torremolinos
- once a fishermen's area of the capital - a busy motorway is used.
About 8km from Malaga the Parador del Golf on the seashore has one
of the best courses on the Costa del Sol. Torremolinos (12km from
Malaga) is very near. The enormous concentration of recent buildings
surrounds the former hamlet of La Carihuela, once a small seaside
village, which was to turn into the summer paradise called Torremolinos
today. In la Carihuela it is still possible to taste the Pescadito
(deep fried fish and the fino (a sherry) as in the past. Apart from
that the discotheques, night clubs, restaurants and other places
of leisure practically occupy the whole extension of the multifaceted
tourist centre, which includes recreational activities and entertainment
of every kind, from the most sophisticated to the most informal.
The beaches of La Carihuela, El Bajondillo, Montemar and El Lido
stretch as far as the mouth of the Guadalhorce.
Almost without
noticing, the traveller enters Benalmadena-Costa, a kind of natural
extension of Torremolinos. There, however, the visitor should go
in search of the old part of Benalmadena inland, a whitewashed,
friendly village on the slope of a 2km beach. A huge funfair provides
entertainment of all kinds. Further along the road skirting the
coast, Fuengirola (17km from Torremolinos) comes into view almost
immediately. It stretches along a very long beach. From there a
road leads to Mijas which is so picturesque that it has produced
an excessive surge of excursions. A visit is nevertheless worthwhile.
The setting is a prototype of rural Andalucia: the impeccably whitewashed
little streets, the small squares perfectly suited to the village
and the two modest Mudejar style churches. The observation platform
in the upper part provides a magnificent view over a good part of
the Malaga coast.
Back in Fuengirola,
the road passes through housing developments and continues skirting
the coast. On the left there is the old Castle of Sohail, built
by Abd el-Rahman III in the 10C and rebuilt in the 18C. A little
later the traveller reaches the boundary of Marbella (17km). High
hedges isolating the villages and luxury housing developments appear
on either side of the road. The town still preserves its Moorish
layout and the small whitewashed façades around a pleasant
tree-lined square. The most outstanding sights of this important
seaside and agricultural town are the walls of the medieval caste,
the 16C Casa del Corregidor (town hall) on the main square, San
Juan de Dios Hospital and the Parish Church of la encarnacion from
the 16C, 17C and 18C, apart from the 16C Hermitages of Santo Cristo
and Baroque El Calvario. A slow walk through Marbella and along
its beaches is a must for every visitor. The babel of languages
and the string of attraction along the way turn the town into one
of the most cosmopolitan and colourful places on the Costa del Sol.
On the way out of the town, there is a modern mosque built by a
Saudi sheik, which is proof of the presence of really exclusive
neighbours. From Marbella a good, though winding road leads into
the Sierra Blanca as far as Ojen, a peaceful mountain village. The
Parador lies 10km away from Ojen. It is the meeting point of hunting
sportsmen in search of a rare species, the capra hispanica. A visit
to Ojen should include the 16C/18C La Encarnacion church with a
good Mudejar coffered ceiling.
Back on the coast,
there is yet one more place on the left where the temporary Marbella
society loves to meet: Puerto Banus. The same as other nearby housing
developments, it was built in a style designed to be reminiscent
of the old fishing harbours, where the most dazzling yachts as well
as luxury restaurants and shops are found. San Pedro de Alcantara
lies 10km from Marbella. It is an old seashore village where valuable
Roman and palaeo-Christian remains are preserved. The excellent
beach has attracted modern housing estates.
After another 15km,
the traveller reaches Estepona, an important fishing village, which
has managed to preserve a peaceful village atmosphere next to the
modern buildings of the Paseo Maritimo (promenade). The Baroque
façade of Los Remedios church, which stands out among the
roofs and whitewashed houses, is charmingly attractive. A walk around
the harbour is a standing invitation. Behind the village lies Bermeja
Sierra, a part of the spurs of the Ronda mountains, with beautiful
views.
A visit to the
Malaga coast cannot be considered complete without going to a certain
village inland. Casares (25km from Estepona) is unquestionable one
of the most attractive of the famous so-called white (whitewashed)
villages of Andalusia. It clings to the slopes of a hill at the
foot of a castle in ruins and commands a magnificent view. The most
remarkable buildings are the parish church and San Sebastian church
(both from the 17c). the detour, 14km from the coastal road, is
well worth the effort.
With Sabinillas
beach and the small Castle of La Duquesa (18C) the journey through
the Province of Malaga comes to an end. At this point the road turns
away from the coast and passes through more solitary countryside.
A short detour
is required to enter the Cadiz part of the Costa del Sol On the
right there are the housing estates of Guadiaro, among them especially
Punta Europa and Sotogrande. The key attractions of these summer
resorts are a golf course and long beach ideal for water sports.
The mountain pass
of El Higueron leads to San Roque (10km), a small, orderly place
founded in the 18C by the inhabitants of Gibraltar in full view
of their place of origin. It deserves a leisurely visit to see Santa
Maria la Coronada Church, the Palace of the Governors and the whole
of the old part in general. At a distance of about 5km, half way
round the bay of Algeciras, there are the ruins of Carteya, an extraordinarily
well preserved, first Phoenician and later roman, colony.
There is an industrial
centre between San Roque and La Linea de la Concepcion. La Linea
at the foot of the Rock of Gibraltar is yet another of the austere,
rectilinear places with good beaches along the coast of Cadiz. Skirting
the bay, the traveller reaches Algeciras, an important port and
an obligatory meeting point for passengers to Ceuta and Tangier.
It is recommended to visit Alta Square in Algeciras: the palm tree,
the ceramic fountain in the centre as well as the Baroque façades
of San Isidro Chapel and the parish church lend the a vague colonial
air, which the traveller will come across again in other places
in this province. Other parts to be visited are the promenade and
the beaches of the bay.
There are only
22km left for the traveller to reach Punta Tarifa on the border
of the Costa de la Luz (Coast of Light) and the only gateway to
the Mediterranean Sea. The road lined with cork oaks, which grow
on the rugged slopes of the cape, passes through two small harbours.
Upon arrival, the Arab walls point the way towards the seaside area
and the magnificent observation platform overlooking the African
coast. The most outstanding sights in this ancient city are the
Castle of Guzman el Bueno (10C) and the Churches of San Mateo (16C),
San Francisco (16C/18C) and Santa Maria.
Granada, Sierra
Nevada and Las Alpujarras
Between Salobreña
and Motril there is the CN-323, a road which leads to Granada. After
leaving behind the bed of Guadalfeo, the road climbs between slopes
coved with almond and fruit trees and passes through lovely scenery.
At a distance of 27km there is the turn off for Lanjaron, the point
of departure of the itinerary through the Upper Alpujarra, which
will be described later on. From this point onward the excursion
takes place at the foot of the Sierra Nevada. (Total length of the
trip: 308km.)
Granada (67km from
the coast) is one of the most attractive cities in Spain and visiting
is a must when the traveller is on the Costa del Sol. Both the Nasrid
palaces, which belong to the most outstanding sights of Islamic
culture, as well as the Gothic and renaissance buildings raised
after the Christian conquest would individually justify a much longer
journey than the one suggested herein. A perfectly preserved Moorish
area - El Albaicin -, a very pleasant urban centre and an extremely
valuable art treasure are further weighty arguments in favour of
prolonging the visit as much as possible.
La Alhambra and
El Generalife occupy a series of fenced hills converted into gardens
with a really magnificent panorama. A visit to the halls, rooms
and patios (inner courts) - which may be described as the architecture
of pleasure -, to the areas and gardens, where water is an ever
present element in the pools and irrigation channels, is something
the traveller will never forget. Among the Nasrid buildings there
stands an imposing edifice designed in the purest Italianised Mannerism
to serve as a royal residence. This is the Palace of Carlos V, today
a Fine Arts Museum.
A walk includes
the added attraction of the magnificent background consisting of
the Sierra Nevada and El Albaicin as well as the Christian part
of Granada city. Inside La Alhambra there is a Parador, which occupies
a convent standing on the site of an Arab palace.
La Carrera del
Darro, a boulevard on the Darro, one of the two Granada rivers,
lies between the towers of La Alhambra and El Albaicin. The aristocratic
western façades along the river on this side are the boundary
of this lovely area, which is almost a proclamation of urban Muslim
architecture. Small, winding streets climb the slope of El Albaicin
between whitewashed houses, cypresses and palm-trees. The panorama
once again fully justifies the pleasant walk.
La Carrera del
Darro gives access to Christian Granada, where the Cathedral should
undoubtedly be visited first. Los Reyes Chapel, a part of the church,
is a magnificent example of Isabelline Gothic: the sepulchres of
the Catholic Monarchs and the main reredos belong to the Renaissance.
The Cathedral as a whole is of the same style and it is considered
a key example of Spanish classicist architecture. The collections
of paintings and sculptures contain very valuable works of art.
Other sights impossible
to omit are San Jeronimo Church, the Royal Hospital and the sacristy
of La Cartuja, the latter being perhaps the best example of Andalusian
Baroque.
On a walk through
the centre the traveller discovers areas exclusive to this city:
La Alcaiceria, which is a maze of little, narrow streets like passageways,
Bilbarrambla Square, El Corral del Carbon and other places of similar
attraction.
Outside the city
there is yet another place of interest: El Sacromonte, an area where
gypsies have their cave dwellings, some of which are used as restaurants
and for flamenco shows today.
A local road climbs
rapidly to a height of 2,500m in the Sierra Nevada. The skiing resort,
the Parador and other facilities have turned these parts into a
crowded place. The same road continues to climb almost as far as
the Veleta, a 3,398m peak, in the vicinity of the Mulhacen (46km
from Granada), which is the highest peak (3,482m) in the Iberian
peninsula. The view from there covers the whole southern slope of
the sierra and the region of Las Alpujarras. There is a forest track
between the Mulhacen and the village of Capileira, but it is suggested
that the traveller take a much longer, though much safer, route,
by which he gets to know the most fascinating parts of Las Alpujarras,
a region which treats its Moorish inheritance with the utmost care.
From Malaga to
Antequera
Total length of
the trip: 120km when returning by the main road. 96km when returning
via Almogia.
Malaga is left
by the so-called acceso nuevo (new access), ie the CN-321, which
later forks towards Granada, Cordoba and Seville.
Casabermeja (32km)
appears on the left with the picturesque cemetery in the foreground.
Despite its recent enlargement the village preserves the original
layout and a number of examples of popular Malaga architecture.
The parish church dates from the 16C and 18C.
A the mountain
pass of Las Pedrizas the traveller should follow the CN331 towards
the left.
Antequera (46km
from Malaga) is an important town as regards sights. It preserves
very interesting buildings for lovers of the Renaissance and the
baroque in Andalusia. The Collegiate Church of Santa Maria la Mayor,
used as a concert hall today, stands near the Arab Alcazaba (fortress)
at the highest part of the town, from where there is a magnificent
view. Carmen Square is another exceptional observation platform.
It lies in front of a church of the same name, which has one of
the most impressive interiors: the Baroque main recredos and the
coffered ceiling are very outstanding.
The main street
of Antequera is called Estepa and it begins at San Sebastian Square:
the Baroque brick tower next to the church of the same name is one
of the most characteristic landmarks in the silhouette of Antequera.
Following the avenue, the traveller should visit - on the right
and left - San Agustin Church, La Casa de los Pardo (a 17C palace
occupied by the branch of a bank) and Los Remedios Church. The latter
is another key building of Andalusian Baroque: the interior, designed
by following stage criteria, probably belongs to the most interesting
of its kind in Malaga. The Municipal Museum in an 18C palace preserves
some very valuable remains of the Roman period. The Convents of
Santa Catalina (facing the museum), of San Agustin, La Victoria,
Las Recoletas and others, the same as the town palaces, which the
traveller comes across on his walk, turn Antequera into a must for
lovers of art and architecture, especially in spring and autumn.
The Church of La Madre de Dios is a building which cannot be left
out by anyone interested in the Baroque style: the interior has
a set of very peculiar, but very interesting vaults.
By taking the same
road which brought him to the town, the traveller soon reaches the
signposts showing the way to the Caves of Menga, to Viera and El
Romeral, three megalithic burial places dating from between 2,500
and 2,000 BC.
After 10km in the
direction of Almogia in the South of Antequera, there is a turn-off
for El Torcal on the right.
El Torcal de Antequera
is a disturbing area consisting of large rocky blocks, which have
often been compared with cyclopean ruins. A visit should be accompanied
by a guide or else the traveller should follow the signposts indicating
which direction he should take. Torcal is recommended, especially
for those who love unusual scenery.
Ronda and the White
Villages
Total length of
the trip: 115km via Castelar and Jimena de la Frontera. 100km between
Ronda and Arcos de la Frontera.
Point of Departure:
San Pedro de Alcantara.
There is a well-paved
mountain road between the coast and Ronda, which asses through the
whole mountain range from south to north with lovely scenery on
either side and practically no settlements.
Ronda (49km from
San Pedro de Alcantara) lies on top of a rocky projection with vertical
walls and is one of the most interesting towns in Andalusia. It
is divided by a deep chasm which reaches a depth of 100m at some
points. El Puente Nuevo (the New Bridge), built in the 18C connects
both parts and at the same time is the landmark of the town.
Upon arrival, on
one side the traveller finds the 16C convent of San Francisco with
an interesting Gothic Isabelline portal. Soon afterwards there are
the Gates of El Almocabar - of Muslim times - and of Carlos V, which
give access to the most representative area of Ronda. The Church
of El Espiritu Santo, founded at the request of the Catholic Monarchs,
stands next to the wall.
The Collegiate
Church of Santa Maria should, without a doubt, be the first place
to be visited. It is an important Renaissance building which still
preserved inside an arch of the vanished mosque. The interior is
a combination of late Gothic and Baroque. Other sights of this section
of the old part of Ronda include El Cuartel las Milicias (today's
Town Hall), the convent of the Clares, La Caridad church and Mondragon
Palace.
Also in the vicinity
of the collegiate church, there are La Casa del Gigante (Giants
House; from Muslim times) and the Church of La Virgen de la Paz,
dating from the 16C and 17c. On the way to El Puente Nuevo, there
is the minaret of San Sebastian, the only vestige of the vanished
mosque. On the right, the visit should include the Palaces of El
Rey Moro and of Salvatierra, the Arab baths and the Arch of Felipe.
Despite its name, the Palace of El Rey Moro is an entirely western
building dating from the 18c. It has a lovely façade typical
of Ronda. Salvatierra, on the other hand, has a curious Renaissance
portal.
The well-preserved
Arab baths are found in the lowest part of town. Close by there
is the 17C Puente Viejo (Old Bridge), which leads to the most recent
area of Ronda. It is suggested, however, to return to El Puente
Nuevo: the view over the precipice of the River Guadalavir is absolutely
breathtaking there.
Very near España
Square, today's town centre, there is the bullring, a lovely 18C
construction which replaced that of Felipe II, dating from the 16C.
In this bullring Pedro Romero, the father of fighting bulls on foot,
created a school, and every year it is the scene of a traditional
bullfight recreating Goyas times. In the area the traveller will
find signposts pointing the way to the Victoria Hotel, where the
room is preserved in which Rainer Maria Rilke lived while he was
in Ronda.
The ruins of Acinipo
lie at a distance of 19km from Ronda. Part of an ancient theatre
is preserved of this Roman settlement.
With Ronda as the
starting point the traveller has two options to get to know the
white villages. The road descending towards the bay of Algeciras
passes through a good part of the mountain range and then enters
the Province of Cadiz. There are two lovely villages to be visited:
Jimena and Castellar de la Frontera. The other option takes the
traveller to Arcos de la Frontera after passing through really magnificent
mountain scenery and through Grazalema and Ubrique.
Popular Celebrations
Folklore is precisely
one of the most attractive aspects of Andalusian culture. In the
course of the year, there are endless opportunities to come into
contact with the brilliant and also the most intimate popular culture
without the need of travelling far. These celebrations can be enjoyed
in the villages along the coast and those inland that lie closest.
Holy Week is especially
important in these parts: Holy Week in Málaga and Granada
have an important series of brotherhoods and pasos (processional
platforms) with valuable Baroque images. The music, the procession
of nazarenos (penitents) and the spontaneous performance of saetas
(religious songs typical of Holy Week) are an impressive spectacle.
Apart from the Saeta de Arcos, the blessing of Christ at dawn on
Good Friday is exceptionally interesting in Arcos de la Frontera.
The passion in Riogordo (Malaga) is a magnificent staging of the
Crucifixion by the inhabitants of the village. The Good Friday procession
is most remarkable.
Los Cruces de Mayo
(the Crosses of May) at the beginning of that month are an old custom
requiring some crosses placed in the streets and squares to be decorated
with natural or paper flowers. The most interesting visits in this
month may include Casabermeja, Torrox and Coin (Malaga) as well
as the Granada areas of El Albaicin and El Realejo.
Estepona and Nerja
hold romerias (festive religious excursions) on May 15th. In Estepona
the religious celebrations are accompanied by riding and horse breaking
competitions as well as Flamenco recitals.
Corpus Christi
(generally in the first days of June) is a key celebration in Granada.
In addition to the traditional procession, the traveller can visit
the Casetas (a kind of kiosk where people gather to make merry and
have a drink) and the interesting Flamenco festival.
In the same month
many traditional celebrations are held: Trevelez and Velez Benaudalla
(Granada) enact the battles between the Moors and Christians; Marbella
organises a procession commemorating the last Muslim kings delivery
of the keys to the town to the Catholic Monarchs; Frigiliana (Malaga)
celebrates a romeria with a competition of pasodobles and with the
music of the Verdiales bands. Finally, Algeciras (Cadiz) holds a
fair with competitions of horsemen and sevillanas (a typical Andalusian
song and dance) in the middle of that month.
In July there is
a Verdiales (a kind of fandango performed with violins, guitars,
tambourines and rattles by groups of musicians in colourful clothes)
competition in Rincon de la Victoria (Malaga), where the best musicians
of the province tend to participate. Estepona and Fuengirola hold
their celebrations on the 1st and 16th, respectively, of this month.
Flamenco songs are again part of them. In Fuengirola the sea-borne
procession of Los Boliches area is outstanding.
On August 5th a
romeria is organised in Trevelez (Granada) in the direction of El
Mulhacen.
During the first
fortnight of September, Ronda organises the traditional bullfight
as in Goyas times in honour of the great 18c bullfighter Pedro Romero.
This important event is accompanied by floats and street parades.
The Patron Saint
celebrations in Granada are held on the last Sunday in September
with processions and street markets. Torremolinos, on the other
hand, celebrates the Fair of San Miguel on the 29th of the same
month.
On October 7th
there is a fair in Fuengirola with Flamenco competitions among other
attractions.
Around Christmas
in December it is possible to listen to the Verdiales music in Nerja
and Malaga. On the 28th the pandas (groups of musicians) meet at
the Venta del Tunel near the capital to compete in a kind of spontaneous
contest.
Museums
Some of the places
the traveller will visit have important art treasures. The most
interesting can be visited at the times given below.
Antequera
Municipal Museum
(in Najera Palace: Roman art and local ethnography).
Guerrero Muñoz
Square. Tel: (95) 284 2180. Open from 10am until 1:30pm. Saturdays
from 10am to 1pm. Sundays from 11am to 1 pm. Closed on Mondays.
Benalmadena
Municipal Museum
(Arab, Roman and pre-Columbian art). Avenida J.L. Peralta. Tel:
(95) 244 8593. In the winter open from 10am to 2pm and 4pm to 7pm.
In the summer from 10am to 2pm and 5-8pm. Closed on Saturdays and
Sundays
Castillo de Bil-Bil
(in Benalmadena-Costa). A permanent exhibition centre of art and
archaeology. Tel: (95) 244 1363.
Ronda
Museo Taurino (Bullfighting
museum), Real Maestranza de Caballeria, Recinto Plaza de Toros.
Timetable: from 10am to 4pm. Tel. (95) 287 4132
Mijas
Museo de Miniaturas
(Museum of Miniatures), Avda. del Compas s/n (ie, not numbered).
Timetable: from 9am to 7pm. Tel: (95) 248 5900.
Granada
Fine Arts Museum
(in the Carlos V Palace inside La Alhambra: art of the Granada School,
from the 15C to the 20C) Tel: (958) 22 4843. Open from 10am to 2pm
(from Monday to Friday) Closed on Saturdays and Sundays.
Royal Chapel (in
the Cathedral). Open from 11am to 1 pm and from 3:30pm until sunset.
Cathedral. Open
from 11am to 1pm and from 4pm until sunset.
Archaeological
Museum (in Castril House). Tel: (958) 2256 03. Open from 10am to
2pm. Closed on Mondays and holidays.
Malaga
Archaeological
Museum (in La Alcazaba). Tel: (95) 221 6005. In the winter open
from 10am to 1pm and 4-7pm; in the summer from 10am to 1pm and 5-8pm.
Fine Arts Museum
(paintings of the Spanish School). 6, San Agustin St. Tel: (95)
2218382. Open from 10am to 1:30pm and from 5-8pm. Saturdays and
Sundays from 10am to 1pm. Closed on Mondays.
Popular Arts Museum.
7, Paseo de Santa Isabel. Tel: (95) 221 7137. In the winter open
from 10am to 1:30pm and 5-8pm. On Sundays from 10am to 1pm. Closed
on Mondays and Sunday afternoons.
Diocesan Museum
(in the Episcopal Palace) 6, El Obispo Square. Tel: (95) 222 2552.
Open from 10am - 1pm. and 4 - 7pm. Closed on Saturday afternoons,
Sundays and holidays.
Holy Week Museum.
Enrique Navarro Square. Tel: (95) 231 2394 - 236 0271. Open from
5-8pm, excepting Saturdays, Sundays and holidays.
Casinos
Benalmadena
Torrequebrada Gambling
Casino. Kilometre 226 on the road to Cadiz. Tel: (95) 244 2545.
American roulette, French roulette. Punto y Banca. Black Jack. Supplementary
services: two restaurants, a bar, a buffet, convention rooms, a
discotheque, a night club, a golf course, tennis court, squash.
In the winter open from 8pm-4am; in the summer from 9pm - 5am.
Marbella
Casino Nueva Andalucia.
Summer residence city. Nueva Andalucia. Tel: (95) 281 4000. 8 American
and 4 French roulettes, 8 Black Jack tables, 1 for Punto y Banca
and 1 for baccarat. Supplementary services: a restaurant and night
club, a swimming pool. In the winter open from 8pm-4am and in the
summer from 9pm-5am.
Arroyo de la Miel
(Benalmadena)
The Tivoli World
Funfair is in Arroyo de la Miel (Benalmadena). Tel: (95) 244 1896
and 244 2849. There are restaurants, typical Spanish bars, an open-air
theatre with performances throughout the summer and everything else
traditionally found in this kind of complex.
Fuengirola
Fuengirola has
a zoo on the Camino de Santiago. Tel: (95) 247 31 56. In the summer
open from 10am-9pm.
Nudist Beaches
and Housing Developments
The Costa Natura
housing development lies at kilometre 151 of the Malaga-Cadiz road,
3km from Estepona. Tel: (95) 280 1500. There are swimming pools,
sports facilities, villas and shops.
The authorised
nudist beaches belonging to the Andalusian Nudist Association are
the following:
"Tropico de
Europa" beach near Almuñecar.
"La Joya"
beach near Motril.
For further details,
write to the association ANA po Box 301, Almeria, or call (951)
254044.
Sports
It is easy to practise
water skiing, tennis or squash on the Costa del Sol. Without wanting
to be exhaustive - which is practically impossible in a tourist
area of this size - some useful information about the most usual
kinds of sports in the region are provided in the following.
Yacht Harbours
and Marinas
Algeciras
Real club Nautico
de Algeciras. La Hispanidad Avenue. Tel: (956) 60 14 02. Number
of berths: 80.
Almuñecar
Punta de la Mona
Yacht Harbour (under construction). Marina del Este Housing Estate.
Tel: (958) 64 03 75. Number of berths: 240; number of berths for
renting: 65.
Benalmadena
Benalmadena Yacht
Harbour. Tel: (95) 244 2245, 244 2246, 244 2247 and 244 2944. Number
of berths: 961.
Estepona
Estepona Yacht
Harbour. Tel: (95) 280 1800. Number of berths: 443. Number of berths
for renting: 200.
Fuengirola
Fuengirola Yacht
Club. Tel: (95) 247 0406.
Torreblanca del
Sol Yacht Club. Tel: (95) 247 5084
Fuengirola Yacht
Harbour (under construction).
La Linea de la
Concepcion
La Linea Yacht
club. 11, El mar Avenue. Tel: (956) 76 0697.
Malaga
Real Club Mediterraneo.
18, Paseo de la Farola. Tel: (95) 222 8528. Number of berths 20.
El Candado Yacht
Club. El Candado Housing Estate (El Palo). Tel: (95) 289 0100 and
289 0301. Number of berths: 215
Manilva
La Duquesa Yacht
Harbour. El Hacho Housing Estate. Tel: (95) 289 0100 and 2890301.
Number of Berths 328; number of berths for renting: 81.
Marbella
Cabopino Yacht
Harbour. Km 195 on the Cadiz road. Tel: (95) 283 1975. Number of
Berths;169. For renting: 80.
Club Maritimo de
Marbella. Tel: (95) 277 5700. Number of berths: 377; for renting:
300.
Jose Banus Yacht
Harbour. Nueva Andalucia Housing Estate. Tel: (95) 281 4750. Number
of berths: 915; for renting: 540.
Motril
Motril Yacht Club.
Poniente Quay, Motril Port. Tel: (958) 60 00 37 and 60 12 47. Number
of Berths: 170; for renting: 60.
Torre del Mar
Puerto Refugio
Torre del Mar. Caleta de Velez-Malaga. Tel: (95) 251 1390. Number
of berths: 200.
Golf Courses
Cadiz (956)
San Roque
Alcaidesa Links
Golf Course. National road CN-340, km. 124.6. Cortijo Las Aguzaderas.
Tel: (956) 61 3030. 18 holes.
La Cañada.
Avda. Profesor Tierno Galvan, s/n (ie. Not numbered). Tel. (956)
61 30 30. 18 holes.
Sotogrande
Sotogrande. Paseo
del Parque. Urbanizacion Sotogrande, Malaga-Cadiz road; km. 132.
Tel: (956) 79 5050. 27 holes.
Dlub de Golf Valderrama.
Urbanizacion Sotogrande, km, 132. Malaga-Cadiz road. Tel: (956)
79 5775, 18 holes.
Granada (958)
Granada Club de
Golf. Avda. Los Cosarios, s/n. Las Gabias. Tel: (958) 58 44 36.
18 holes.
Motril
Los Moriscos. Urbanizacion
Playa Grande. Tel: (958) 600412. 600306. 9 holes
Malaga (95)
Alhaurin de la
Torre
Lauro Golf los
Caracolillos. Los Caracolillos. Alhaurin de la Torre. Tel: 241 2767.
18 holes.
Benalmadena Costa
Golf Torrequebrada.
CN-340, km. 230. Tel: 244 2742 - 256 1102. 18 holes
Campanillas
Guadalorce Club
Golf. Ctra. Cartama, km. 7. Tel: 224 3682 - 224 1677. 18 holes.
Estepona
Atalaya Golf and
Country Club. Benhavis Road. Km. 0.7. Tel. 278 1894. 27 Holes.
Club De Golf Coto
la Serena. CN. 340km. 163. Tel: 280 4700. 9 holes.
Estepona Golf.
CN-340, km. 150. Tel: (908) 215 1309. 18 holes.
Golf El Paraiso.
CN-340, km. 167. Tel: 278 4712. 18 holes.
Fuengirola
La Cala Golf and
country Club. Avda. de los Boliches, 72. 42 holes.
Manilva
La Duquesa Golf
and Country Club. Urb. El Hacho. . CN.340, km 149. Tel: 289 , 9
holes.
Malaga
Club el Candado.
Urb. El Candado. Tel: 229 9340. 9 holes.
Marbella
Aloha Golf club.
Nueva Andalucia. CN-340. 8kms. from Marbella. Tel: 281 0875 - 281
2388. 27 holes.
Club de Golf Las
Brisas. Nueva Andalucia. CN-340, km 181. Tel: 2810875. 281 1750.
18 holes.
Golf Artola. CN-340,
km. 194. Tel: 283 1390.
Golf Rio Real.
CN.340, km, 185. Tel: 277 3776. 18 holes.
Montemayor Golf.
Urb. Los Naranjos. Country Club. Tel: 281 0805. 18 holes.
La Quinta Golf
and Country Club. Nueva Andalucia, Urb. El Herrojo. Ronda road,
km. 3.5. Tel: 2753462. 27 holes.
Los Naranjos. Nueva
Andalucia. Cadiz-Malaga road, km. 340. Tel: 281 5206. 18 holes.
La Dama de Noche.
CN-340 Marbella. Tel: 281 2352. 9 holes.
Santa Maria Golf.
CN-340, km. 192. Tel: 280 0386. 9 holes.
Mijas
Campo de golf Miraflores.
Urb. Miraflores. CN-340, km. 199. Tel: (908) 215 5640 - 283 7353.
18 holes.
Club de Golf La
Siesta. Urb. Sitio de Calahonda. Jose Orbaneja, s/n. Tel: 283 6370.
9 holes.
El Chaparral Golf.
Urb. El Chaparral. CN-340 km. 203. Tel: 249 3800 - 249 3825. 18
holes.
Mijas Golf International.
Old road to Coin, 3km. from Fuengirola. Tel: 247 6843 - 246 7943.
36 holes.
Rincon de la Victoria
Añoreta
Golf. Urb. de Golf, s/n. Tel: 240 50 00- 240 4000. 18 holes.
San Pedro de Alcantara
Club de Golf Los
Arqueros. Aloha Pueblo. Nueva Andalucia. Tel: 281 5873. 18 holes.
Guadalmina. San
Pedro de Alcantara. Tel: 278 9616 - 288 3375. 36 holes.
Torremolinos (Malaga)
Club de Campo de
Malaga. Parador del Golf Club de Campo de Malaga. Cruce de Churriana.
Tel: 238 1255 - 238 1120. 18 holes.
Skiing
Sierra Nevada Skiing
Resort (Granda). 31km from Granada. Excellent runs and many mechanical
lifts. Good infrastructure as regards accommodation, including a
Parador. Tel: (958) 480 153/ 249119.
Hunting and River
Fishing
For detailed information
and the corresponding permits, contact the Delegacion Provincial
de Icona in Malaga. Address: Edificio Multiple, Avenida de la Aurora.
Tel: (95) 232 4300.
Accommodation
Everywhere on the
Costa del Sol there are hotel establishments of every kind. It is
prudent, however, to book in advance for a visit during the summer
months.
The largest number
of luxury hotels, villas and residential areas are found in Marbella,
Torremolinos, Benalmadena costa, Fuengirola, Estepona and Malaga.
this part of the coast has hotels of all categories, camping sites
and a wide variety of holiday apartments to let. For more detailed
information one should approach one of the Tourist Information Centres
listed under the corresponding heading.
The Paradores
There are eight
Paradores on the Costa del Sol and in its vicinity. Those at Torremolinos
and Nerja lie at the seaside. That of Malaga stands on a hill overlooking
the city and from there it is easy to visit the nearby beaches.
Those at Antequera and Ojen lie inland, but are well communicated
with the coast. the Paradores at Granada, in sierra Nevada and at
Arcos de la Frontera need to be dealt with separately: the first
occupies an old palace in La Alhambra and is probably one of the
most sought after establishments, and a room there must be booked
well in advance. Those at Antequera and in Sierra Nevada occupy
privileged places, but are relatively far from the coast.
Parador del Golf
Malaga (Torremolinos) Tel: (95) 238 1255 Fax: 238 2141. Four stars.
Facilities: beach, swimming pool, golf course, library, tennis court.
Parador de Nerja.
Tel: (95) 252 0050. Fax: 252 1997. four stars, Facilities: beach,
swimming pool, garden.
Parador de Gibralfaro
(Malaga) Tel: (95) 222 1902. Fax: 222 1902. Three stars.
Parador de Antequera.
Tel:(95) 284 0261. Fax: 284 1312. three stars. Facilities: swimming
pool, garden.
Parador de San
Francisco (Granada). Tel: (958) 22 1443. four stars. Facilities:
a garden.
Parador de Sierra
Nevada (Monachil). Tel: (958) 48 02 00 and 48 0204. Three stars.
Facilities: tennis court and music room.
Parador Casa del
Corregidor (Arcos de la Frontera). Tel: (956) 70 05 00. three stars.
Facilities: a library.
Bookings can be
made by dialling the following numbers in Madrid (91) 559 0069 Fax.
559 3233.
Communications
The whole Costa
del Sol is communicated by a good general road which has up to four
lanes on the busiest sections. As regards excursions inland, there
are excellent roads to reach the more important towns and villages,
and picturesque, winding local roads to visit the more rugged regions.
There is a large network of car rentals for those who arrive by
plane or train.
Useful information
for travelling is found in the following.
By Plane
Malaga Airport.
Flight Information: (95) 224 0000. Iberia Information Tel: 213 6160.
Aviaco Tel: 213 6324. Air Europa. Tel: 223 1500.
Granada Airport.
Tel: (958) 44 64 11.
By Rail
Malaga
RENFE (Spanish
Rail) Station: Cuarteles. Tel: (95) 231 2500. Information and tickets:
2, Strachan st. Tel: (95) 221 3122.
There is a train
service between Malaga and Fuengirola via Torremolinos and Benalmadena
and a stop at the airport. There is a train every 30 minutes between
6am and 11pm. The Malaga terminal is next to the RENFE station.
Granada
RENFE Station.
Los Andaluces. Ave. Tel: (958) 27 12 72.
Information and
tickets. 63, Reyes Catolicos st. Tel: (958) 27 12 72
Algeciras
RENFE Station.
Tel: (956) 65 11 55.
By Boat
Malaga
Information about
departures and arrivals. Tel: (95) 222 21 17.
Regular service:
with the Compañia Trasmediterranea to Melilla. In the winter
on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays; in the summer on the same days
plus on Sundays. Most Mediterranean cruises top off at the port
of Malaga.
Compañia
Trasmediterranea. 4, Juan Diaz Street. Malaga. Tel: (95) 222 4393
and 222 7881.
Algeciras
Trasmediterranea,
ISNASA and Transtur have a regular line to Ceuta, Tangier and Gibraltar
(via Tangier). for information about departures and arrivals: Estacion
Maritima, Tel (95) 265 3706.
Compañia
ISNASA. Estacion Maritima. Tel: (956) 65 25 11 and 65 28 00.
Compañia
Trasmediterranea. In the port area: Tel: (956) 66 38 50.
Campañia
Transtour. S.A. Estacion Maritima. Tel: (956) 65 37 06.
Tourist Information
Offices
Andalusian Regional
Office for Costa del Sol Tourist Board
Economic Affairs and Inland Compositor Lehmberg Ruiz, 3
Revenue: 29007 Malaga
Edificio Administrativo Servicios Tel: (95) 228 8354
Multiples 228 8362,
(Servicio de turismo). Fax: (95) 261 4598
Avenida. de la Aurora s/n
Tel: (95) 234 7300
Fax: (95) 232 5508
Algeciras
Malaga Municipal Tourism Avda. de la Marina s/n
Department Tel: (956) 60 0911
Alameda Principal, 23
Tel: (95) 222 7907.
Antequera
Almuñecar Palacio de Najera, Coso Viejo, s/n
Paseo de Asdillo, s/n Tel: (95) 284 1827
Tel: (958) 63 12 25 & (95) 284 21 80
Benalmadena Costa
Carratraca
Cadiz Road, km. 220 Eaños, 3
Tel: (95) 244 2494 Tel: (95) 245 8016
Fax: (95) 244 0678 (Ayuntamiento Town Hall)
Coin Estepona
Pedro Gonzalez Dominguez, 1 Paseo Maritimo Pedro Manrique, s/n
(Mercado Mayorista- wholesale Tel: (95) 280 0913
Market), Fax: (95) 279 2181
Tel: (95) 245 2666
Fax: (95) 245 2666
Granada
Fuengirola Plaza Mariana Pineda, 10
Avenida Jesus Santos Rein, 6 Tel: (958) 22 66 88
Tel: (95) 246 7457
Fax: (95) 246 5100. Corral del Carbon, Lepanto s/n
Tel: (958) 22 1022/22 5990.
Malaga
Pasaje de Chinitas, 4 Malaga International Airport
Tel: (95) 221 3445. Tel: (95) 224 0000 Ext. 2098.
Fax: 222 9421.
Marbella Nerja
Plaza de los Naranjos Puerta del Mr, 2
(Bajos Ayuntamiento - Town Hall Tel: (95) 252 1531.
Basement)
Tel: (95) 282 3550.
Puerto Banus.
Avda. del Mar s/n.
Tel: (95) 281 7474.
Ronda
Ronda Puente Nuevo s/n
Plaza de España, 1 (Ayuntamiento - Town Hall)
Tel: (95) 287 1272. Tel: (95) 287 3240
San Pedro de Alcantara
Torre del Mar
Avda. Marques del Duero, 68 Avda. Andalucia, 92, A.
Tel: (95) 278 52 52 Tel: (95) 254 1104.
Fax: (95) 278 9090
Arco de Entrada, CN 340km. 170.5.
Torrox Costa
Torremolinos Almeria road.
Bajos de la Nogalera, Local 517 Conjunto Internacional, Bloque,
79
Tel: (95) 238 1578. Tel: (95) 253 0225.
Plaza Pablo Ruiz Picasso s/n
Tel: (95) 237 1159
Fax: (95) 237 1159
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